Coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, distilled water, sodium hydroxide, castor oil, rice bran oil, cocoa butter, rosemary essential oil, lavender essential oil, activated charcoal, mica, titanium dioxide, tin dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide hydrate, boron oxide
I used a divider, dropped color in and then did a hangar swirl with 5 colors.
This is another split batch since I am using my half loaf mold, my secondary soap used up a sampler of Brambleberry’s Juicy Couture scent, no special design effort there.
For more Rosemary & Lavender ideas I have posts about Rosemary & Lavender Lip Balm and Rosemary & Lavender Hair Conditioner
Now to see how the colors change with curing.
I made a divider for my soap mold and split the batch into two different soaps. On one side I was expecting trouble with the Pikake or Hawaiian Jasmine scent I picked and while it didn’t thicken as fast as I expected it did rice and have to be blended out. I picked a pearly white mica and tossed in some of my rose gold mica which discolors in cold process but I wanted to see what I would end up with, I was hoping for a very soft pink or at least some gold sparkle but it seems to have completely disappeared.
On the other side of the divider I used a ginger and patchouli scent. The bottom layer is grey with activated charcoal and I added black tea. Then I blended cocoa powder for brown, Moroccan red clay blended with brick red oxide for red and drop swirled those into a plain batter and layered it over the grey layer. The top is a solid pearly white.
I decided to make a manly scented soap, it matches the shaving cream I make. The bay rum oil is known to advance trace and I am also using clay so I worked pretty fast, just in case… and as you can see that resulted in the colorant not being mixed until completely even. I normally add rice bran oil, shea or mango butter in my recipes but I ended up going with something very basic and used up the remainder of my Tamanu oil and Ginkgo Extract.
Bay Rum/Cedarwood/Bergamot Scented Soap
10.21 oz Olive Oil Pomace
10.21 oz Coconut Oil
10.21 oz Palm Oil
.91 oz Castor Oil
.46 oz Tamanu oil
1 Tbs Bentonite Clay
.5 oz Ginkgo Extract
10.56 oz Distilled Water
4.56 oz Sodium Hydroxide
Hydrated Green Chrome Oxide
Fragrance oils:(mildly scented)
.4 oz Bay Rum Fragrance Oil
.4 oz Bergamot Essential Oil
.5 oz Cedarwood Essential Oil
I don’t have 1 oz soap molds so I make a 4 oz square bar and then cut it into 1 oz slices.
Lavender Tea Tree Facial Soap
4 oz Shea Melt and Pour Soap Base (divided into 2 parts)
1/8 tsp Kaolin Clay and/or Rose Clay
1/8 tsp Activated Charcoal
8 drops Evening Primrose Extract
6 drops Lavender Essential Oil
4 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Jojoba Oil
In a measuring cup place 2 oz of the Shea Melt & Pour soap base and then add Kaolin Clay or Rose Clays.
Melt in microwave in 10 second bursts and mix well for a minute. Add Lavender Essential Oil, Evening Primrose Extract and Jojoba Oil. Pour into mold and spritz with isopropyl alcohol to remove any bubbles.
If you want your layers of soap to remain completely separate place the mold with Layer 1 in the freezer while you prepare Layer 2.
In the same measuring cup place 2 oz of the Shea Melt & Pour soap base chopped into pieces and Activated Charcoal.
Melt in microwave in 10 second bursts and mix well for a minute. Add Jojoba Oil and Tea Tree Essential Oil and mix well.
Spritz the clay soap with isopropyl alcohol again before pouring the charcoal layer on top. The alcohol is essential to ensuring the layers of soap stick together. Depending on how long Layer 1 cooled when you pour Layer 2 it may sit on top as a separate layer or immediately mix in.
Let your mold cool for an hour or more before removing, if you are impatient you can put it in the freezer but take it out after about 10 minutes or it might sweat glycerin when it comes out of the mold.